Woke up on the morning time. When the solar was nonetheless asleep — had a espresso earlier than she did. Drove decelerate empty roads. Empty of all however one runner with pink footwear. Drove gradual up the freeway watching the black roll in over the ocean, eyes straining for the white.
Walked as much as a desert tree, morning gentle lighting up the greys and inexperienced, the pink flowers on one other. Stopped in all that’s awe. Chose a break with about 100 folks doing a paddle out, “Did someone die?” “Christ did.”
Instead of rolling my eyes in my head, I smiled at these people, loving their God. Wandered on — to waves barely surfable with my new buddy and his dad. Rode our logs upon heat crystal clear waves. Floated on my stomach, seemed down at child sting rays, yellow fish, marvelled on the speckles of gold floating within the water. Missed waves, caught waves.
Left for breakfast — ate a breakfast bagel within the sunshine, smelled a pink rose, drank a espresso that’s proper. Pet a canine for 30 minutes with my one hand, legs draped over the flawed aspect of a chair. Pet one other canine. Lost my keys, discovered my keys. Hoped throughout prepare tracks barefoot. Had a person stroll as much as me and say, “I’m sorry to interrupt you, but you’re one of the most beautiful women I’ve seen in a long time. And I couldn’t not tell you.” Sat and talked with individuals who had been variety.
Drove to a special break I’d by no means been too. Walked with similar buddy down stairs carrying massive inexperienced longboards, a guitar, solar hat and moist fits. Got down and he mentioned, “Let’s sing” and so we did. Free styling, little tune birds. Beautiful and candy within the sunshine. Nerves flying, what an intimate factor. To have a voice to sing.
Surfed extra countless inexperienced waves, crouched down — ankle barrels, pleased within the sunshine. Took the moist go well with off and swam, crystal clear and chilly–pleased within the sunshine. Sat and ate dried mango, drank previous espresso and talked about the whole lot on this world one may want to discuss, but missed the whole lot all on the similar time. Tuna, lemonade, strolling barefoot, pleased within the sunshine. More espresso — pleased within the sunshine.
Great day, or a terrific life?